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MEET THE DESIGNER - HERMIONE FLYNNHermione Flynn is Berlin based...

March 15 2018


                       MEET THE DESIGNER - HERMIONE FLYNN

Hermione Flynn is Berlin based fashion studio offering a wide range of designed garments made in an unisex approach. The German label has been developing different lines focusing on artistic integrity, aesthetic, function and sustainability. HF’s designs are challenging current norms through a creative process using Human body, space and time with clothes. 

Check out the 3D fashion film made by HERMIONE FLYNN and MIMIC PRODUCTIONS. 

Let’s find your favourite piece at STUDIO183 Flagship Store.


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If you were.. 

A country?
I’ve moved around a lot, so I don’t feel particularly connected to one country, I’m not nationalistic in that sense. Instead of being a country, I’d describe myself as the ocean.

An adjective?
Enthusiastic

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A fictional Character?
Hermione Granger - those books taught everyone how to pronounce my name.

An Artist?
Marina Abramović

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An Animal?
My dog, Wednesday Addams

An invention?
The battery

A historical event?
New Zealand leading the world in womens’ Suffrage.

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Your clothes highlight creative and social commentary. In your opinion, how might the fashion industry become more socially responsible?
It goes without saying that the consumer has been educated by the market to believe that clothing costs a certain amount to make, and this price is inaccurate. For starters, we need to educate the consumer so that everyone understands actually how much clothes cost. That will inevitably lead to ensuring that there are fair wages for workers, and processes that don’t interfere so much with the environment etc…
Alongside this level of social responsibility in the production, I also think about fashion’s social responsibility in terms of aesthetic, and how we could break the boundaries a little more. If fashion’s leading the way in terms of the aesthetic of clothing, there’s potential there to also show the public that men can wear dresses, or bigger women can wear particular silhouettes, or whatever.

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HF’s range is original for being unisex. Do you think that it will become increasingly a norm to create unisex collections in fashion?
Yeah I think so, and I hope so. The only challenge is adjusting for different body sizes. Other than that, I don’t see any reason why men shouldn’t wear certain garments and visa versa. No reason at all. If patterns are adjusted to fit a man’s body shape, there’s no reason why men shouldn’t be wearing dresses, skirts,
jumpsuits, whatever they want.

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www.hermioneflynn.com

www.facebook.com/hermioneflynn

instagram.com/hermione_flynn/

twitter.com/hermioneflynn

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MEET THE DESIGNER - KINAKina is an independent fashion label...

February 22 2018


                                  MEET THE DESIGNER - KINA


Kina is an independent fashion label founded by the designer Julia Penkina 13 years ago in Hanover. She has been developing an attractive mix of functionality and efficient aesthetic using geometric forms and sophisticated silhouettes. Kina’s line firstly specialized on scarfs and shawls. Then, Julia expanded the range of products with the simple straight cuts, flowing subtle fabrics and functionality becoming characteristic of the brand image. Kina collections are focused on portability, sustainability and femininity.

Check out our selection of KINA items at Studio183, Bikini Berlin.


If you were…

… A city? St. Petersburg

… A monument? The statue of Lenin

… A season? Winter

… A painting? Black square

… An animal? Snake

… A sport? Shooting

… A book? Idiot

… A movie/series? Das Leben ist schön “La vita è bella”

… A song? New York, New York – Frank Sinatra

… A nightclub? Studio 54…;)))

Why did you choose to focus on making scarfs when you launched Kina?
Scarves are the basis for each garment… But at KINA* they do anything but boringly hang around the neck - they are spiced up and become favourite pieces… I wanted to jazz up outfits already existing and not be forced to buy a whole new outfit…

You are proposing a sustainable production that highlights an eco-friendly spirit. What are your ideas to minimize the environmental impact of textile industry?
The whole collection is made without any remains of material, because the cuts are in rectangle form. In addition all the materials are not synthetic and are gained from renewable resources. The message of the label is to be found in the name - handmade, locally produced favourite pieces far away from cheap mass production – notmadeinKINA*… Also KINA* offers a lot of possibilities for teaming the pieces of this collection with different accessories. This makes it easy to combine favourite pieces and wear them several times at any occasion - whether it is for office use, casual in the leisure time or nicely styled in the evening. Same but different!

What’s your favourite Kina’s item?
The scarf that covers the shoulders, the “Ärmelschal”.


www.notmadeinkina.com

www.facebook.com/kinastyle

https://twitter.com/notmadeinKINA

https://www.instagram.com/notmadeinkina/

MEET THE DESIGNER FORM OF INTERESTPlease introduce yourself and...

September 07 2017


MEET THE DESIGNER FORM OF INTEREST

Please introduce yourself and your brand!

My name is Jessica. The name of my label is Form of interest. The dot is quite important because it is neither more nor less. Making fashion is only one way to have an influence on the world.

To cultivate bees might be more important !!!

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I am a conceptual fashion designer, artist, teacher and heart fighter. The background of the label is based on the concept to see fashion as a kind of medium to visualize new constructs about society and humans. The collections are made for men and women but mostly for humans who want to express themselves. 

The umbrella term „Unisex“ only describes my openness towards new forms of being. What is a typical human? Who do we think we are? The way we describe ourselves does not fit in my imaginary fantasy of being. Fashion is a form beyond other mediums to communicate. 

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This description gives me a lot of freedom to design for men and women — it can more be seen as a form of cultural study. Garments, images and videos are only the end results of my permanent search for answers — for asking questions. 

I am like an academical childish dreamer with a great sense for reality directed by my heart. Concerning this Form of interest. is not only a fashion brand, it is more a way of making some impact on the small world I live in.

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What are the challenges of designing for both men and women?

I think there are some technical construction challenges in making clothes, but they are not really difficult to solve. First of all — designing for men and women means you need to deconstruct totally what you think what is typical menswear or womenswear. I was never interested to mold the different bodies to emphasize the typical men’s or women’s body. I never understood the way of trivial sexiness, which is so important for so many people and designers.

The meaning of clothes besides their functional description was always shifting throughout the history of fashion. For me there are no typical men’s clothes neither women’s clothes. My way of designing is a more sculptural research on the human body no matter what kind of gender.

Maybe this is part of my personal experience - when I was interested to wear oversized jackets, trousers and shirts as a teenager. The way the fabric built new shapes was quite interesting for me and is my understanding of fashion design. Finding new shapes through deconstruction.

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To design for men and women does not mean that men need to wear skinny jeans and women boyfriend jeans. This is not what unisex garments mean. Unisex in my perspective is characterized by neutrality towards everyone who wears the garment. My way of designing has nothing to do with turning the gender codes around — this way of thinking would be too easy. I am more interested to develop garments which suit men and women in a contemporary society. At the same time it is also a kind of cultural study to break up old role models of men and women.

You can be everyone every day, but mostly you should be yourself without the discussed codes of society’s perception of being a typical man or women. We live in a time when we are still forced to see horrible images about what is beautiful and sexy. My way of designing should build an opposition to rethink the classical aesthetics. It is entirely influenced by the Japanese understanding of what is beautiful and the way a garment sculpture is built. The garments mostly are oversized or asymmetric. This way of making cuts allows you to develop a shirt in the same time for a man or a woman.

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However, not every garment in the collection is unisex. Unisex is about a heartily driven understatement of ego-driven personalities. We all are human and should not reduce ourselves by clothes and the first perception. Fashion should be a form of communication to describe authentically who you are or who you want to be.

What are your thoughts on the gender-neutral trend?

First of all, I believe it is quite important nowadays to call old role models into question, which are still part of our everyday Life. The gender neutral trend fits quite well in our contemporary time in which a lot of systems collapse to reform themselves. There is a new way of signification and empathy for humans which comes up. I am convinced we all have a female and a male side in us. But what concerns me is that we should not forget how important diversity is for societies.

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Every trend is only good by thinking about it — and transfer it into real situations. In my everyday life, I experience, it is more important to be clever, to be dedicated,  authentic. This should be what we learn about the gender neutral trend. It is not about making men and women the same it is about loyalty, about calmness, and strength for diversity. The main problem is not being a man or a woman — it is a question about power.

I think what we can learn about the trend is to ask the question why humans want to be better or have more power over other humans? From this point of view it is more of an ego problem to describe humans by simple constructed words. Individuality is humanity and implies diversity without the need for power. Power is the problem and not what kind of sex you are :)

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One of your collections appear to be inspired by outer space, what would you wear on Mars?

The background of the collection is the theory of Paul Watzlawick and radical constructivism.  Everyone is living in his or her own universe through constructing the world by experiences and the ability to think. The collection’s title “I am in another universe“ is quite philosophical. The deeper meaning describes the human ability of empathy to respect the universe and the beliefs, thoughts of other people. It is a statement for knowing that we all only can try to understand each other - and stand for acceptance. 

If you are aware of your own universe, you might get to a point of calmness and what we call reality could be different every day — it is only a form of communication and construction. What is real and what is fake can no longer be distinguished. It is a form of freedom to accept different behaviors and perceptions of others in our life. Compared to a life on Mars — it might feel the same. A feeling of adventure of not knowing — so I hope I could wear a bubble of laughing and smiling on Mars.

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I scream, you scream, we all scream for …

Loyalty

Can you tell us about exciting plans for the year ahead?

There are a few exciting projects in the making. Form of interest. As a conceptual label includes not only garments and collections for men and women. Over and above that — I am quite interested to work with different creatives to have an interdisciplinary impact. I no longer think that single disciplines are modern. The connection between different fields bring out new sense and spontaneous challenges which only can emerge by leaving the familiar path to loose and find yourself again. This kind of process is only possible by challenging yourself and your creative world in connection with others. There will be different projects with artists, bands, friends and graphic designers. For the label itself I am still in the process to strengthen my vision of my label, and my inner wish to have a new impact of seeing the fashion system form anew.

Website: http://www.jessicadettinger.com/

Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/formofinterest/

Instagram: @form_of_interest/

MEET THE DESIGNER EDWARD MONGZARCould you please introduce...

August 29 2017


MEET THE DESIGNER EDWARD MONGZAR


Could you please introduce yourself and your brand?

Of course! My name is Edward Mongzar and I am the designer behind the luxury ethical womenswear label of the same name based in the UK. I was born in the North-Eastern state of Nagaland in India. Nagaland is known for its rich heritage and culture; it’s a melting pot of traditional and contemporary, with its diverse tribal communities and the rapid pace at which the state is developing and modernizing.

I have studied all over India whilst growing up and completed my MA degree in Fashion Design here in the UK, where both my label and I are now based. Under my label, I create luxury ready-to-wear handcrafted garments that are ethically made. I hold very strong beliefs in honouring the artisanal crafts from which most contemporary fashion has been derived and therefore incorporate two timeworn crafts into my collections; Naga hand loom weaving and marble hand dyeing.

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What is the most important consideration when designing a new collection?

There are several factors that influence my design process when it comes down to creating a collection. One speaks to my desire to create pieces that are simple and feminine, I want to create pieces that are functional; I am a big believer in ergonomics and though I like to innovate with the crafts I use, I always aim to keep my pieces wearable.

Another factor speaks to my commitment to artisanal crafts and ethical practices. I design with my artisans in mind to continue to discover new ways to incorporate the crafts of marble hand dyeing and Naga hand weaving into my collections. My goal is to give Naga hand weaving a new lease of life and so I always keep my weavers in the forefront of my mind when making a collection. This factor also brings me to hand marble dyeing and my commitment to continue to pioneer the use of hand marble dye on clothing. Historically, marble dyeing has been exclusive to paper but with growing interest in marbling on fabrics, our label has been able to bring the mediums of marbling and luxury fashion together.

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Your roots belong to India but you have studied fashion design in the United Kingdom. How do these different cultures influence your designs?

I’ve been very lucky to have studied and lived in both countries and through each of them; I have had my eyes opened to new cultures, new points of view and therefore a very unique outlook on fashion. The rich cultural background I have experienced growing up in Nagaland and several other states of India has allowed me to appreciate the beauty of traditional and artisanal crafts; whilst my time spent in the UK and my travels elsewhere in Europe have taught me to appreciate the rich history in art and culture. Amongst this chaos of information and exposure, I have found a very comforting balance in which I am able to express my design aesthetic.

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You use traditional techniques to create your pieces. Could you please describe how do these fit to your design universe?

For me, the Naga hand weaving that I have adopted into my AW 17/18 collection is a part of my tribal heritage, it’s a practice that has long been a part of our culture, I grew to realise whilst studying my MA in Fashion Design that, if the craft were not re-purposed and given a new lease of life, it could quite easily die out. This is something that would not only be a shame for me, but for the whole of my community, it’s a vital part of our state heritage and something that is ours. That’s really what made me decide to use the weaving in a more contemporary way, so for me, the weaving is something to explore and also to protect.

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Your luxurious pieces are created under sustainable and ethically conscious practices. Could you let us know about the production process?

We have taken great effort to ensure that every aspect of our production is responsible and treats people with dignity and respect. We employ several widowed women as weavers in my home state of Nagaland in India, the women have all been weaving to support their families and so we wanted to give them a steady income source to ensure they could do that with fair wages, safe working conditions and sustenance. We also make a point of letting them know that they are valued, that their work is appreciated and that we respect both them and their traditional craft of Naga hand weaving.

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We also maintain this commitment to ethical and sustainable design through the production house we use. We went to great lengths to make sure that we worked with a production house which respected sustainable practice and maintains a commitment to high ethical standards. It has really helped to be working with a production house which is ethically minded and works for sustainability.

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What exciting plans do you have for the year ahead?

We are so excited about our next collection; we will be continuing to work with lots of silk as we have previously. We will be focusing on really re-phrasing our SS17 in SS18, using a new way of marbling and with my belief in honouring traditional artisanal crafts, we will maintain our commitment to ethically made pieces and supporting our artisans, and finally a fashion week might be in our calendar. Keep an eye out for that!

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Social Media Links:

Instagram: @EdwardMongzar

Twitter: @EdwardMongzar

Facebook: www.facebook.com/edwardmongzar

Website: www.edwardmongzar.com

jessicadettinger:NEW COLLECTION TITEL INSPIRATION: FORM OF...

August 23 2017


jessicadettinger:

NEW COLLECTION TITEL

INSPIRATION: FORM OF INTEREST.

The new collection of FORM OF INTEREST., ‘We are the daughters of the witches you did not burn’ rebels against the norm and questions the status quo in terms of gender identity, political messages and the function and economy of clothing. 

The brand keeps its wearer open for new forms of being, encourages to be curious, to question and look for the answers in new realms.

Get inspired by their visuals on their tumblr.

MEET THE DESIGNER ALMA DE PIEDRACould you please introduce...

August 22 2017


MEET THE DESIGNER ALMA DE PIEDRA


Could you please introduce yourself and your brand?

I’m Sofia Carrillo, from Guadalajara, México, founder and designer of Alma de Piedra. Alma de Piedra is a jewelry brand, handcrafted by Mexican artisans and myself. I like to create unique pieces using most of all raw gemstones trying to highlight the beauty and natural qualities of their elements. Each stone has a different meaning and energy and people buy them regarding their very own character.

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Where do you find inspiration for your collections?

I find inspiration in nature and in life itself, but I could say that most of my inspiration come from each of the stones that I carefully select, each one of them inspire me to do something unique with it.

You use natural materials and stones in your designs, your jewelry has an earthy, powerful aesthetic. How would you describe your connection to Mother Nature?

Nature is everything. The stones come from the the depths of the earth and my jewelry should reflect the calm feeling you have when you walk in nature. 

To be able to create pieces with beautiful stones that are full of energy is something very special, I like to think that somehow it also connects the people who wear them with nature.

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Do you have an ideal woman in mind you design for? Who is your muse?

I design for all women, I like to think that when they wear my jewelry this inspires them to feel free, powerful, beautiful and comfortable with themselves as they are. 

I get deeply inspired by any woman who lives her life in her own way, who is in touch with herself and embraces her true self.

Any woman who live like this is a muse for me.

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Your pieces are handmade by you or Mexican artisans. Could you please tell more about your sustainable production process?

Since I started the brand 4 years ago I worked with a lovely family of artisans in Mexico, where the workshop is. Every item is made individually by hand. I design all the jewelry and choose personally each of the stones we will use. I am with the craftswomen and men a lot to control the process, and of course to exchange ideas, and I also make some of the items myself.

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What exciting plans do you have for the year ahead?

Travelling is just the most inspiring source for creating new things. I was in berlin a lot, went on some roadtrips to Scandinavia and Italy and now I am very happy go get back and start working on the new collection.

I have a clothes brand as well which I have to take care of. My plans are to continue travelling the world finding new stones, designing and making new pieces and grow the business in a very healthy, sustainable way.


Social media links:

Instargam: https://www.instagram.com/almadepiedrajewelry/

Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/joyeriaalmadepiedra/

MEET THE DESIGNER DOLINERCould you please introduce yourself and...

August 19 2017


MEET THE DESIGNER DOLINER

Could you please introduce yourself and your brand?

My name is Gili and I am a detail explorer and maker, originally from Israel.  I graduated with a BA in jewellery design from Shenkar College of Engineering and Design, Tel Aviv. 3 years ago I moved to Berlin where I am currently based.

I define myself as a detail explorer & maker because this describes best the essence of my practice which is expressed in all of my designs. My pieces stand on the fine line between art and design therefore you can find them in design stores like Studio183 and in galleries or art jewellery exhibitions, such as Joya Barcelona.

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What is the most important consideration when designing a new collection?

I don’t relate to the idea of creating seasonal collections. I choose to look at it more as a “growing collection”, quite like a personal jewellery box that you have at home, which contains jewellery from different periods in your life, and is characterised by various aesthetics.

What connects all the pieces together is simply the fact that they were all curated by the same person, who found a reason to have/keep each and every one of them. They are all connected in a way and hold different stories and memories within.

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Your jewelry pieces are sometimes playful in design, or a mix of ancient heritage and very modern. Where do you find inspiration?

My creative process starts with eyes wide open. I collect and document moments from my life and in my work I see the world through the enthusiastic eye of a child who’s experiencing things for the first time. I try to maintain this childish enthusiasm by provoking the viewer and by creating objects with Kinetic elements and hidden details, which trigger him or her to experience the same curiosity that I’ve experienced and transform them into material, into jewelry.

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For example my Chicken earrings, when not being worn, they are literally sitting and functioning as an object on a shelf with a lot of character.

Then, while functioning as earnings, they stand upright. I love to see the surprise on one’s face, as he discovers the hidden function of this Object-Earring.

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I also like the fact that they don’t just fulfill their job as earrings and go into a box. Each Chicken is made from many tiny parts and take a long time to make. It’s almost like being in a meditative state. I’m always happy with them. They make me smile.

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Your pieces are handmade and cared for with great attention to detail. Could you please let us know more about the production process?

To be honest I refer to “great attention to detail” in an almost obsessive way. My starting point are the small details, they are my trigger for creating. It can be a mechanism or a tiny piece of metal, I then find the extension of the thing that triggered me and express it in the piece.

My table is cluttered with tiny pieces and I work simultaneously on a few things at the same time. It might be connected to my A.D.H.D but the design process for me is like riddles that I keep inventing and which need solving. This is why when a “solution” appears in my mind I abandon the rest of my work and put all of my attention on finishing the piece.

What exciting plans do you have for the year ahead?

The next thing coming out is a new series of rings, the collection deals with expressions and moods. I can’t wait for them to be out! I promise you will also be able to find a couple of pieces in the lovely Studio 183.

I inform my customers about new pieces on Facebook & Instagram, you can follow me for updates.


Website - www.gilidoliner.com

Instagram - www.instagram.com/gili_doliner

Facebook - www.facebook.com/dolinerdesign

MEET THE DESIGNER VIS A VISCould you please introduce yourself...

August 12 2017


MEET THE DESIGNER VIS A VIS


Could you please introduce yourself and your brand?

VIS A VIS is a street wear label based in Vienna. The label was founded by 22 year old Andrea Kerber in April 2016. VIS A VIS represents the interaction between noble an urban clothing. The apparent contrasts blend together perfectly and create a signature look. Another feature of the brand is the cozy and simple cuts, which ensure wearability and comfort. The label focuses on quality, craftsmanship and timeless design.

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Where do you find inspiration for your collections?

VIS A VIS draws its inspiration from music, different fabrics, people and icons. The diversitiy in Vienna concerning different cultures and people affect VIS A VIS. During drinking coffee and listening music, I watch people passing by. But also some special fabrics are able to trigger a new idea.

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Your collections are modern and feminine, perfectly encapsulate the character of the contemporary woman. What is the ideal woman you design for like? Do you have a muse?

The ideal woman I design for is a self-confident and strong. The idea behind VIS A VIS is to dress women who want to look fashionable and find comfort important at the same time.

My muse is definitely Caroline de Maigret.

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You created a jewelry collection with jewelry brand Nadine Now, which we also have in store, and also asked a few questions from the designer, Nadine on this blog. Could you please tell a bit more about how the collaboration came into life?

Two years ago Nadine and I met up in Vienna searching for a flat. We stayed in contact and when we launched our labels and became self-emplyed, we decided to create a collaboration.

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What exciting plans do you have for the year ahead?

In September I am part of the Vienna Fashion Week, so for now I have to prepare all the looks for the Show.


Instagram: www.instagram.com/vis_a_vis_official

Facebook: www.facebook.com/Visavis

Website: www.fashionvisavis.com

MEET THE DESIGNER TAM ARACould you please introduce yourself and...

August 08 2017


MEET THE DESIGNER TAM ARA


Could you please introduce yourself and your brand?

Hi, I am Tamara Bodnarova and I create womenswear under the TAM ARA brand. I have always been tempted by fashion and I decided to produce clothing so I could change the way of thinking about quality and style.

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What is the most important consideration when designing a new collection?

When thinking of a new collection, I always start with the material. That is most important to me. We wear clothes all the time, so they should feel pleasant on the skin.

You really attend to the needs of women while designing your collections. Your pieces are made from natural materials such as wool, silk, cotton and linen, so that they would be comfortable to wear. Could you please let us know more about your ideal woman to design for? Do you have a muse?

I do not have a muse in particular. When designing, I like to think of a busy woman, who quite often has to spend all day wearing the same clothes and wants to feel comfortable and a little more distinct too.

Natural materials are great for day-long wearing because they are breathable. My personal favorite, wool is a great insulator and repels water and dirt. These materials are also very pleasant for me to work with. I tend to design minimalist clothes and play with patterns. Sometimes, I put in a bright color to balance the bald cut. I want my garments to be able to stand out or to nicely complement the look, depending on the wearer’s mood.

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Where do you find inspiration?

My desire to create originally came from the love for textiles, so I usually let fabrics speak to me. Besides that, the inspiration comes from the streets as I love watching people. And there are still plenty of ideas stuck in my head and some pop out during the creative process.

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Your pieces are created under sustainable practices. Could you let us know more about the production process?

I strive for sustainability in several areas. I use natural materials as they are biodegradable. I try to use local suppliers as much as possible. For example, the cotton I work with was mostly woven in the Czech Republic and I buy locally produced threads and haberdashery.

The working conditions are very important for me. I hate the idea of a huge amount of people working in a terrible and dangerous environment. All my products are made either by me, or by a seamstress in the Czech Republic. This way I know exactly who made which piece and moreover, it helps to reduce travel costs. I like to have limited collections and not to produce too much stock of one type of garment, the clothes are then a little more exclusive and less waste is produced. When I have any excess material, I try to think of some other way of using it.

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What exciting plans do you have for the year ahead?

My brand is still very young, so everything is exciting and new for me. What I would like the most, though, is to make women (and men too) think more about what they wear, what it is made of, where and how it was produced. And, to think more about themselves, who they are and if what they wear reflects that. I am here to help them with all this :)


Instagram: www.instagram.com/tam_ara_praha

Facebook: www.facebook.com/TamAraPRG

Website: www.tam-ara.cz